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VOLVO S80 (1999-PRESENT) (stills taken from video road test)
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MY VERDICT:
For:
- Great motorway car
- Good safety and security
- D5 Diesel engine is superb
Against:
- Claustrophobic in the front
- Heavy depreciation
- 2.5TD engine is terrible
- Poor rear visibility
The car I tested had the worsed of both worlds - the old 2.5TD engine and an automatic gearbox. Added together this made it feel just too damn slow. Okay, I admit you generally don't buy a Volvo to go racing off from lights, but this thing made even normal overtaking a nail-biting experience - not what you'd expect from a luxury car like this. A manual gearbox would help a bit but the real answer is to go for the newer D5 diesel engine - it completely transforms the driving experience. Even with the better engine though don't expect to be hustling this car around the twisties because the steering is not that sharp and it does wallow about if your pushing on a bit. The interior is not that spacious either considering how big the car looks, but this is because you are cosseted by armchair like seats and an imposing dash which will satisfy even the most ardent button junkies. There must be stacks of insulation in there as well because it's a very quiet car. All this adds up to a formidable motorway cruiser. I completed a 350 mile journey with 3 other adults and it was amazing how fresh we all felt at the end. So in summary the S80 is well built, well equipped, and is very comfortable - making it a real alternative to the German competition.
WHICH ONE TO GO FOR:
As stated above the D5 is the only one to go for. If you really don't like the idea of a diesel the more powerful petrol 2.8 and 2.9 engines suit the car as well but you will pay for it - they are thirsty and will depreciate more heavily than the diesels. Optional extras add desirability rather than value, but all S80's are well specced anyway.
RELIABILITY AND COMMON FAULTS:
The S80 came a very respectable 44th (out of 160 cars) in the biggest independent reliability survey of 2005 - which is a testament to Volvo's built quality. No major faults are reported but there are quite a few niggly recall issues that affect cars built between certain dates. Its worth checking these on the Government's recall website (just search 'vosa' in google) to check that the car you are buying isn't one of them, or if it is, the recall has been carried out.
SAFETY:
Volvo are famous for safety and the S80 lives up to this reputation. It scored a commendable 4 out of 5 stars in the Euroncap safety tests. Euroncap commented "the Volvo is a very safe car and gave good all-round performance".
MODEL HISTORY:
Introduced in 1998 with equipment levels including ABS, PAS and air-con. Optional comfort or luxury 'packs' available at extra costs. 2001 saw the launch of the executive 2.8 and T6 versions, as well as the new 2.5 D5 diesel. 2003 saw revisions to the rear styling and the introduction of the 2.0T petrol.
HOW TO AVOID BUYING A LEMON BY USING OUR BUYERGUIDE BELOW.....
An old wise man with a strange hat once told me "time spend on reconnaissance is time seldom wasted" - which when translated into buying a used car means "a little preparation can save you a lot of money and frustration". Seriously, if you are spending thousands of pounds its worth following a few simple points to help you avoid being dissapointed with your purchase......so i hope you find this buyerguide useful.
Before seeing the car:
- If it is a private sale make sure you view the car at the sellers premises - this will help determine if the seller is genuine
- Always ask the seller to make sure the car is cold when you come to view it - warm engines can hide a multitude of sins
How to check the mechanics:
- Before the car is warmed up check for a film of oil in the radiator - the presence of oil would signify internal engine leaks or a blown head gasket
- Make sure the oil on the dipstick is smooth and has no bits in it or milky scum - again this could mean internal engine leaks
- On starting from cold make sure the engine does not turn over sluggishly - this could mean a worn starter and or starter motor.
- Check for oil leaks around the engine and on the ground where the car has been stood - any leaks could indicate expensive gasket replacement
Body and interior:
- Worn drivers seat, pedal rubbers, and a shiney steering wheel all indicate a high mileage car - check these appear consistent with the indicated mileage
- Evidence of scratches or tampering around the speedometer is a dead giveaway that the car has been 'clocked' and the mileage is not genuine
- Check that the tyres have 1.8mm legal tread depth and the exhaust is silent when you cover the end with a cloth whilst the car is running - both can be price negotiating points of replacements are needed
- Check that everything works such as switches, heater, a/c, windows, mirrors, stereo, interior and exterior lights - fixing any of these things can be a real pain
- On older cars check for rust on the sills and floorpan (prod carefully with a screwdriver) - unless you are friendly with a welder rot can be expensive and messy to fix.
- Check all body panels are consistent in colour and fit - if they are not it is likely that the car has been in an accident and has been repaired poorly
Road testing the car:
- With the handbrake firmly on try to set off in 1st gear. The car should stall instantly - if it does not it is likely that the clutch needs replacing
- After driving for a short while floor the throttle - a could of blue smoke out of the exhaust indicates worn bores or valve guides both of which are expensive to fix
- The car should accelerate smoothly accross the rev range - flat spots or hesitation may signify fuel injection and /or computer problems which are notoriously hard to diagnose and fix
- The car should pull away smoothly from a standing start - if it judders this may indicate oil contamination of the clutch plate and a new clutch will be needed
- take the car to at least 70mph. The car should drive straight and not pull to one side. If there is significant vibration this may indicate any one of a number of hard to diagnose problems. Do not let the seller fob you off with "its just the wheels that need balancing".
- When the car is stopped with the engine running turn the steering wheel from full lock to full lock - rough operation or hissing indicates the power steering is faulty
Finally, trust your instincts about the car and the seller and do not let your heart rule your head - if you are not happy just walk away!!
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