GUIDE TO BUYING AN OUTBOARD

PLEASE CLICK ON YES AT BOTTOM ONCE READ - and i will post much more reviews

THANK YOU

more specifically buying an outboard from

BOATSANDOUTBOARDS4SALE

I have decided to write this review to try to answer some common questions regarding outboards and purchasing them on ebay, when I have an outboard listed I get many questions from ebayer's seeking help and assistance selecting the most suitable motor for them, most people simply dont know what size or type of motor is best suited for them, some need to know more than others. This is designed to give more information for all ebayers in order to ensure you get the best suited motor for your money.

WHERE DO I START

The first thing you need to do before you buy an outboard is consider what it is you need it for, now this may well seem daft, i need it to get the boat moving dummy! Fair point but there is many ways to float a boat and there is many more ways to move one too. In real terms I am talking about the intended use of the outboard. If your looking at using it as your main power source you will need to consider several factors. Before you even do this you need to get the right size outboard for your boat, this is done in two ways, firstly you need to check what size power output you boat can carry. This does not mean it says 60 so I will buy 60, this means consider the h/p, the weight and the required use. There really is no point having a 60 bigfoot on a displacement boat used in area's with a 8 knot speed limit when a 5 h/p will do the same job. never ?? -  most displacement hulls can only reach 8 knots regardless of the outboard size, and a 5 h/p outboard is capable of around 8 knots with good calm tidal conditions.

The second thing to consider is the shaft length, there are normally 3 available, short shaft, standard shaft and long shaft. The difference is clear, one is shorter then the other right ?? correct, but so what ? to get efficient performance from your outboard its cavitation plate (just above the prop) needs to sit level with  the bottom of your boats hull, you can get away with  an inch or two either at most but try to keep as close as possible. Most speedboats require short length, where as most dory's use the long. short shafts are around 15 inches, Standard outboards are around 18 inches and the long are around 23 inches. You measure the outboard length from the outboard's bracket that sits on the boats transom to the cavitation plate just above the prop as shown below

Easy as that right ?? wrong,  be careful, standard shaft is often referred to as short shaft and vice versa. To confuse things more there are some boats that require an extra long shaft, normally around 25 inches, these were made simply to confuse you, no ok there of course serve a purpose for larger transoms but are very rare and hard to obtain. be careful when you check the shaft size that the measurement is taken from the transom mount to the cav plate as shown above, some people often measure to the centre of the prop, this could lead to you being a few inches too short. you can extend the shaft length of larger outboards but this is costly. get the shaft length wrong and you could cause cavitation, this gives uneven performance and causes the motor to lose power. it also gives a bumpy ride as well as causing damage to the outboard in severe cases. too long a shaft will also be an issue. you will have problems coming into shallow water and also wont get full power too top end as the boat will drag although longer is better than shorter.

now that you have the correctly sized outboard in terms of shaft and h/p. consider how it is going to be used. if your looking for a main motor you need to consider the following. how do you intend to steer. are you doing it from the wheelhouse or from the motor itself. if your using remote steering what kind are you using. common modern ways are via teleflex, this gives good strength. does your motor have the capabilities of using the teleflex arm, is it the through transom kind or via linkage arm. an older way is using the cable pulley system. this requires the motor to have an attachment for the cables to connect to. if your steering from stern transom you need the motor to have a tiller arm. consider the tiller arms length, do you need to balance your boat by steering from the middle etc etc. next point is think about how you intend to control the throttle and gears. again via remote cables or from the transom again. can the motor take remote connections, do they come with the outboard, is there a saftey lanyard and if so is it possible to connect at the wheelhouse too. all important things to consider.

now that you have chosen the most suitable way to operate your outboard lets move onto which type to buy. you can buy many different kinds of motors, i prefer 2 stroke simply for power, performance and ease to maintain. some rivers do not allow two stroke outboards so you need a 4 stroke. i am not going to explain the difference in outboard specifications but will simply say one you need to mix the oil (2 stroke) one you dont (4 stroke). there are exceptions to this rule. 2 strokes require the oil added to its fuel, this can be done either pre mix into the fuel tank or some outboards have a seperate oil tank for this to mix as and when required ie the popular yamaha autolube. this can become expensive to repair but is more convenient day to day. again i prefer premix simply because i know then i have put enough in and thats that. does your motor need to recharge your battery. some main outboards have a power output which can be used to do this. do you need to have power tilt or can you manage to lift it out after use. does it need to be electric or again can you manage to pull start. if you go for electric try to get one with an emergency pull facility as back up. if your battery dies or start motor fails you can still start the motor then.

there is of course many more things to consider, for example do you need a power prop or speed prop, do you need to have the facility to run the outboard from a larger fuel tank or can it be used off the internal tank. this is not going to explain all but will give you the basics.

now i move onto smaller motors. if you are looking to buy an outboard for aux to your main outboard, consider the following. will i be able to fit it on my transom next to my main motor, do i need an aux bracket, is weight a factor. will it be capable of pushing my boat if required. do not just assume you will never need it. nor assume it will start when required without fail. you need to make sure you run it often so when you need it its there ready. make sure it is available quickly if not on any transom. make sure it has the correct fuel/oil mix and that the fuel is not too old if using internal tank. if using external will you need to carry another tank. will the connections fit. normally mariner, yamaha and mercury use the same outboard connections as do johnson evinrude and omc so if possible try to get the same type of outboards both main and aux unless you intend using an internal tank of course. if your using it simply as an aux will it need gears, will f only be suitable. again is it the correct shaft length. can it be tilted out of water when not in use. if your using it on a tender consider the weight, fuel range, power output and kill cord connection.

when considering the running condition of your motor think about the following. is it pumping water. if its not then it will overheat (unless air cooled of course). is it running well, is it missing a beat or idling poorly. can it be run at low revs without choke. can it start easy, does it go into gear without any noises or clunks. has it been serviced and freshwater flushed, hows the prop, is there any manual with it, is it giving good top end power, do you hear any untrue noises. if in doubt ask. know what your getting  - is it running is it faulty - is it requiring a service and attention or can it be used from purchase. always offer information so the seller can help. be honest, dont assume they will correct you.

Input from a fellow ebayer who also suggest's the follwoing for you to look out for

I have found that older 2 strokes - my experience is mainly mowers, often fail to restart when the engine is given a good hard run - reason - if the seals on the crank are worn they can leak air when hot. I imagine the same is true of outboards. If so, they should (if possible) be tested both for cold start failings and when they are well warmed.

Thanks John for your input and I hope it helps buyer's get the best outboard for their money

MORE ABOUT ME NOW

 I SUPPLY RNLI SAFTEY INFO WITH MY SALES FOR PEACE OF MIND ONLY.

i also show video's of the outboard running for you to inspect as i understand its not always possible to visit and view.  you need to be safe first then you can relax and have fun. nobody wants to be dragging you out of the water because you have no idea so get prepared for everything and remember the water is fun but dangerous. be cautious and careful. get trained and alway have a back up plan and resources to get out of trouble. I AM A 100 % FEEDBACK POWERSELLER AND always offer assistance where possible. you know what your getting from me simply because i will be honest and show everything. its not all about money, i have a young boy and would not sell anything i would not be willing to use with him. i trust ebay and its buyers and expect the same in return.

HAVE FUN AND BE SAFE