Uniform quality basing makes a big impact on the table, often more than the quality of the figure painting, the base after all is the largeest area Second hand figures are usually based and new ones are often based to the wrong base sizes for the rules you may be using.

Step 1 Work area

A clean working area, well away from little fingers and partners. If you do not have much room I use a banana box as a tray. This allows work in progress to be moved easily.

Step 2 Old base removal

Soak the figures up to their ankles in water. I use plastic fruit trays that supermarkets use for fresh fruit.

Step 2 More Soaking

Overnight usually works for most cardboard bases, but some take a little longer.

Step 3 Drying

Paper towels are best. They also dry quickly so you can reuse.

Step 4 Basing

I prefer to use pre-cut MDF bases. If you have well painted figures its a shame to compromise on the quality of the base. Various Renaissance units shown here.

Step 4 Basing

These pre-cut bases are of uniform thickness and very hard wearing. Next a base coat of paint over the MDF base. WW I British shown here.

Step 5 Base painting

I paint the bases in green or brown before covering a ground cover. I experimented and gernally find that a uniform covering works best on smaller bases. That way divisions and corps can be composed of any unit elements, saves tiem when making units up on the table.

Step 6 Scenic grass

Cover the base in flock or scenic grass. This is available from model railway shops. Use it generously to cover the metal base of the figures.

Step 6 Scenic grass

Ready for a coat of glue on the base and some flock, or scenic grass.

Step 7 Numbering

With large numbers of units I recommend using numbered tabs atthe back of one element in each unit, the other 2 elements un-numbered. This way a unit can comprise of any elements of same type. This speeds up play. If you do have regimental colours, still number the units, not everyone is familar with unit colours.