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Buying a ROLEX Ladies or Gents Wrist Watch

by: jerusalem-time ( private ) Top 5000 Reviewer
73 out of 75 people found this guide helpful.
Guide viewed: 4619 times Tags: Rolex | Swiss | WristWatch | Oyster | Submariner


I have written this 2nd more detailed guide to Rolex watches, due to the large number of enquiries we receive on a daily basis. The brand of Rolex is very collectable today and as with everything you really get what you pay for in the area of wrist-watches. 

Rolex was founded by Wilsdorf and Davies in 1905 and initially used movements from Aegler in Bienne and later on  Reeberg movements. The trademark Rolex was first registered in 1908. In the year 1926 they made the first totally waterproof watch, the Rolex Oyster and 5 years later  made a self-winding watch called the Oyster Perpetual. At the end of WW2 in 1945, the DateJust with  day of the month was introduced. The reference book to read on this unique make is the volume by Hess and Dowling "The Best of Time".

Prior to WW2, Rolex marketed 2nd quality brands such as Marconi, Unicorn and Rolco, mostly in full Rolex stamped cases. After handling many Rolex wrist watches, I have noted that these are generally watch movements bought in from other wrist watch movement makers and normally of poor quality.  However, saying that the Rolco brand can sometimes give the odd surprise, take the dial off and quite often they will be stamped Rolex.

A short list below gives some useful pointers for the 1st time buyer.

1.  Check the RETURN POLICY of the seller, if there isn't one, avoid!

2.  Whilst many of us love a bargain, and you can find them on Ebay every day, avoid the many sellers, who are breaking Ebay rules and of course the law by selling FAKE watches. 

3. Think carefully if you plan to bid on a watch from China, Taiwan etc. Many of these Ebay sellers are selling fakes or have taken slightly out of focus pictures and there is a reason for this.

4. Please remember to check that the Ebay seller is offering safe and sensible PAYMENT methods as recommended by EBay. Do not give out your hard earned money if you have got any concerns about possible non-receipt of the watch. Better still ask questions before considering bidding, if the seller does not reply, I would recommend that you leave well alone.

5. 2ND CHANCE OFFERS, never, never, respond to these crooks, who are trying to scam you of your money and don't have the watch. We state on all of our auctions not to respond to these offers, as all responsible Ebay sellers do today.

6. Check that the watch you are wanting to bid on has been SERVICED and over-hauled.  Otherwise you may get a nasty surprise, after purchase.  High-grade Rolex wrist-watches can often be very expensive to service and overhaul, if you have to take them back to official agents. Rolex has a restrictive trade practice which means that only Rolex trained watch repairers will be able to clean and repair or obtain parts for older Rolex watches.

7. With vintage wrist-watches it is normal to find them with restored DIALs. Do check that this has been done professionally, if so, this will ensure the watch retains its value. However, do avoid those watches with incorrectly restored dials using dreadful colors. Also check that the hands have not been replaced with modern poor quality examples, this can detract from the look of the watch and also its value.

8. Rolex CASES come in all sorts of shapes and sizes.

Ladies 9k gold pre-war cases are generally in 9k gold and stamped with one of the following marks: Rolex, RolWatch, W&D, RWC Ltd; Rolex 20 or 30 Records. Rarely do you find such watches in 18k gold and when offered I would recommend they are bought - excellent investments!

Later ladies watches come in steel, steel with gold bezels and also with two-tone bracelets. Check for case number and movement number on the case back and full marking for Montres Rolex.

Gents watches come in a range of style including the rare and collectable Prince tank watch. Early mens watch with white enamel dials are now very uncommon and can be found in silver or gold cases. Unusual case styles, flared lugs, tank cases, cushion cases are all highly collectable and great fashion statements.

Most Rolex Oyster cases have stamped screw in buttons, check these still lock on tight to the case post and also check the condition of the button. If it is a replacement do check that it is sympathetic and fits well with the case.

If there is any damage to the case, holes, splits or missing lugs or bezel, unless very rare leave well alone. If the case has been repaired in the past with soft electrical solder, leave well alone. This material attacks the gold case and is very time consuming and expensive to remove. Past experience has taught me a lesson on several occassions.

Mnay early gold or silver Rolex cases have engraving to the rear covers such as dedications, these can be filled in by a good gold or silver smith and made to practically disappear.

9. Check that the MOVEMENT is also in good condition and there is a clear picture of this on the listing. Many vintage Rolex wrist-watches have suffered in the past, with earlier repairers using ammonical cleaning solvents which has often stripped the finish off movement plates. Also check to see the screws and plates are not mauled or scratched. Most competent high street jewellers can open the back of a watch to check that the watch is a genuine Rolex and not a fake.

10. FINAL POINT- working vs non-working - unless you are a capable restorer avoid watches which need work or cleaning. There are always gremlins and further problems the seller may not have seen or even known about. Unless very rare, there will always be another watch in better condition. Please remember that early Rolex watches are becoming more collectable and of course prices are rising, but try to stay clear of project watches.


Guide ID: 10000000001294888Guide created: 04/07/06 (updated 21/08/08)

 
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