This is my guide to buying a GY125/200 from whatever company you buy it from

If you buy these bikes in the non-assembled condition then this guide may be of help to you

Your new bike will arrive in a big cardboard box ,in the box your bike which will be attached to a frame work with the handle bars, front wheel, side stand ,indicators speedo and ignition barrel and a box of bits and bobs all packed beside it

The 1st thing you need to do is get all the bits and bobs handle bars etc free from the packaging and remove the front wheel and box of spares from the cage you bike is in,this is mainly cellotape and foam packaging sheet

Once you have all this out the way the next thing i would do is start to unbolt the cage from the front back removing any bits of wire that still hold the bike to the cage ,you may need a bit of help to steady the bike

Once the cage is removed from the bike you need to unbolt the forks from the bottom of the cage ,again get someone to help you with this ,once off i would get the side stand that should be wrapped up in white foam sheet get the nut ,bolt and spring and fit it to the side of the bike ,using good pliers to pull the spring into place

Next is the bit where you might need assistance again ,you need to get the bike off the ground high enuff at the front to fit the front wheel ,i got someone ready with an axel stand to put under the engine guard once i lifted the front of the bike up but if you can get someone to help you lift and place something under it all the better

you will need the speedo device that goes onto the front wheel opposite side of brake disc and also make sure that the plastic stopper is out from the brake caliper and the gap is open to fit the disc on the wheel

Get you wheel inline making sure you have the spacer at the brake side of the locating hole  and the speedo device is IN THE CORRECT  gap on the other side of the wheel then just put you long bolt through and tighten up

After that i would pull the bike out of the cage making sure its not in gear so the rear wheel can turn

At this point you may be thinking god this bike is smaller that what i thought but the rear suspension is prob not fitted at the pivot point ,to do this find the bolt and roller and fit it in the correct hole

If you put the bike on its side stand and get a helper to tip it towards them you can get to the place you need to be ,its just a big black arm with a bolt hole ,put you roller in and you bolt through the hole and tighten up

By this stage you should have a bike with no side panels ,no speedo ignition handle bars etc etc

I would suggest you put on the handle bars next and if need be move the bike to somewhere easier to work with

The next stage involves putting on the speedo ,indicators front light etc ,i think working from the front of the bike back is the most logical route

You will see the speed clock and ingintion barrel bolt on the the same two mounting holes just below the handle bars ,the indicators go on to the forks at either side where the forks clamp as it where

The front light is mounted in 3 places ,the two side mounting places ned to be adjusted by loosing the size 8 bolt and sliding it up the forks untill the head light fits ,the 3rd location in in the middle on a arm and should be just below the headlight  

Wring is very easy as the block connectors only go into the ones that they fit ,the bullet connectors are mainly earth for the indicators and kill switch

With all the connections down you can just try and hide the cables into the black cover as best you can ,its not normally that good but you can try

The next things would be the choke and that goes on to two of the bolts that hold your handle bars in just undo the two nearest the front of the bike place in and replace the bolts and tighten

Get you mirrors and put them in to the holes and just tighten them a bit coz your gonna have to adjust them to suit yourself later anyway

connect you speedo cable the the speedo and front wheel and use some good plastic ties to fasten this against the solid part of the fork so it wont touch the front wheel ,if your speedo part on the front wheel is not in the correct place you need to slacken the front wheel and move it to where it should go

Next engine oil ,you will find that you bike has next to no oil in it ,you need to top this up using the wee slight glass ,remove the dip stick which on some models is easier said that done coz part of the bike frame is in the way ,once removed top you bike up with the correct amount

After this you should be ready to fit the battery ,it will have came dry and the mounting box should be unfitted also and should have came with some distilled water/battery acid  to add in to your battery (plastic white container)

Pull out the top of the battery cells and top up with the water/acid to the top level on each cell in the battery put it on charge if you have a charger for a while if not the bike should start with out a charge

PLEASE BE CAREFUL WITH ACID/WATER AS ITS VERY CORROSIVE ,DONT GET IN YOU EYES AND WASH YOU HANDS IF YOU SPILL ANY ON THEM

Once topped up replace the caps ,take the battery box and fit on the gear shift side of the bike at the rear ,you should see the two cables pos and neg ( RED+ AND BLACK - )

The two mounting points for the box should be easy to see and you need to put the two plates that sit inside the box and then simply bolt into place

Place your battery in with the pos side towards the handle bars and connect it up ,then fix the rubber band to hold you battery in ,shut the box and bolt up using the two holes and two nuts and bolts (cables just sort of squash in or what i did was drill two holes at either side and fed them in .) 

Your bike should have lights etc now but it wont start as you have no fuel in it which takes us to the next part

The fuel hose from the carb to the tank is always far to long on these bikes so you need to chop a wee bit of and then push it onto the tank pipe ,putting a wee bit of oil on the tanks pipe makes it easier ,then just push the hose on and then push the clip over it

If you have some petrol then stick it in make sure the fuel tap is in the on position and then have a go at starting your bike it should burst into ife fairly quickly and settle to a nice tickover(will be a bit slow to begin with)

The next step is the chain ,these bikes come with the chain way over tight so you need to loosen the back wheel and adjust the chain ,fairly simple to do loosen the bolts and the chain adjusters give the wheel a bit of a tap forward then check the chain if ok make sure the wheel is aligned using the adjusters and tighten the wheel up again

Your bike is just about ready ,just take off and stickers padding etc that still may be on it then fit the side panels which to be honest are a job in themselves to line up ,no tips here just try you best

What i would suggest is that you start at the front and check every nut and bolt to make sure its tight ,check you oil and chain again also ( if you want to be 100% take it to a motorcycle mechanic to look over it will cost you thougth but gives you peace of mind)

When you think you ready for you 1st run on you bike take it easy and take a spanner to adjust you mirrors,handle bars and even the levers ,the last one i bought had a buckled front wheel a bit scary to ride on amd then the speedo cable turned out to be broken luckily i had not gone far and these where covered under warranty and prob down to transit damage and only took 3 days to get replacement

Anyway have good fun on your bike ,mind let it run in for a while and when you get to about 500 miles change the oil and get the tappet gaps checked and reset if need be and apart from that these bike are no more trouble that the jap stuff that cost over £2500

Just want to add that these bikes donthold a lot in the way of fuel , Your lucky to get about 65 miles before you go onto reserve and you only get about another 10 to 15 miles after that ,mind you my 200 seems a bit better than my 125 where i can get 90 miles out of a tank including reserve .

With that in mind what i do is fit a top box ,you can get a decent universal one on ebay for around £30 - £50 and they normaly have a plate you bolt on to the rear carrier and the box clips on (personnaly i bolt the box to the plate as well as i dont trust the cheap locking mech) then i carry a plastic can of fuel with me in the box ,giving you an extra 60 -70 miles or so and is better that running out of petrol in the middle of nowwhere (yes i have done it once ist time i bought one of these bikes)

Another point i might add ,the seats on these bikes are not very comfy ,i dont know what the commuter style bikes are like having never been on one but the GY range are only good for about 20 or so miles then your in pain so not recomended for long journeys  

Another question is about top speed of these bikes,i can tell you what the bikes i have will do but based on me being 6ft1 and 19.5 stone (i am no a wee bloke but i am no fat bugger either as will anyone who knows me will tell you ) 

Anyway my curent GY200 will sit quite happily at 60 mph with me on it with only a major hill slowing it down ,i have had it doing 70 but it wont stay there for long so those of you who are a tad lighter you could say the GY200 will prob do a top speed of 70 to 75 (just not with me)

The last GY125 i had was not as inpressive 50mph was about it but 45ish was prob the the norm ,not fast be any means ,some jap 125 2 strokes can do 75 - 80 i had a DT50 that after de restricting could do 45 mph and those itailian bike aprilias etc there 125,s can do 100mph and i believe there 50cc can do 50mph plus

Based on this i think The top speed for a GY 125 is no more than perhaps 55-60 mph if you a good deal lighter than me ,to be honest unless you are a tall skiny 10 stone bloke i would forget the GY125 and buy a second hand jap 125 4 stroke (not a 2 stroke as they aint reliable and you have to mix oil and petrol)   

Not sure what the score is with these replacement sprokets but will try them out and let you know

Happy biking