Want to know what a rope is to be used for? Twin rope, half rope or single? Read this to find out...

General:

A dynamic climbing rope is a rope whose intended purpose is for providing protection during recreational rock climbing, be this winter, sport, trad or indoor. A dynamic rope offers a degree of elasticity to allow a dynamic load (fall) to be absorbed with a reduced amount of shock loading. Thus protecting the climber from more serious whip-lash type injuries and reducing the liklihood of compromising the anchor points. The elsaticity of the rope in turn reduces the suitability of the rope to be deployed in other uses such as abseils, rescue and rigging.

All dynamic climbing ropes are given a 5 year life by the manufacturer. Typically this is extended to a ten year shelf life when stored in recommended conditions prior to first use.

All dynamic climbing ropes offered for sale in the UK should conform to UIAA or EN /CEN standards and carry the appropriate marking, together with the rope classification marking for dynamic climbing ropes. These are indicated by the following logos each around 10mm in diametre and normally printed onto a label that is tightly wrapped around the ends (both) of the rope. Occasionally these labels may come off in the course of normal use, although this is unusual. More often ropes are sold in reels (especially to outdoor centres and commercial users) and are cut to the users required length - these may never bear the classification marking.

Single rope:  This indicates that the rope is a dynamic climbing rope suitable for use on most climbing routes. It suffers more from rope drag on routes that wander from the vertical and limits the height you can descend in an abseil retreat. It is the most simple system - one rope is less complicated but can make rigging belays less flexible than would otherwise be the case with twins or half ropes. Make sure there is the UIAA or EN / CEN marking accompanying this label.

Half rope: this indicates a dynamic rope used for rock climbing. It should always be used in tandem with another rope of the same standard. These are popular in their use on routes that deviate significantly from the vertical as rope drag becomes a factor. Only one rope needs to be clipped into an anchor meaning that as the route is ascended less rope drag is introduced as the ropes can be seperated to the left and right of the route instead of a single rope zig-zagging across the route. Planning clips to ensure a reduction in drag is necessary to benefit fully. Where the route is straight alternate ropes should be clipped. Additional safety benefits are the tendancy to exerpt less force in a fall on a single anchor - so where protection is marginal, such as on snow and ice, the anchors are more likely to withstand the fall and offer the protection intended. On an abseil you will have twice the length of rope to play with than had you set out with a single rope - so you can descend roughly double the distance when compared to a single rope. There is also added flexibility of being able to use more rope in rigging belays on multi-pitch routes - simply because you have a greater length of rope. Half ropes are also known as "doubles" or double ropes.

Twins: Similar in appearance to a pair of half-ropes, these are usually skinny and similarly weighted but must only ever be clipped together - and used in pairs. These suffer the same draw backs of single ropes - they must zig-zag with the route and thus suffer rope drag. But they do have the advantages of half-ropes in that you can use them more flexibly in an abseil and in rigging on multi-pitch routes. Twin ropes have been almost totally supersceeded by the more flexible half-ropes. Rarely are twin ropes seen in use today.

Touring / Walking rope: these are sold in a variety of lenghts - typically around 30m and are designed to offer the ski-mountaineer or glacier walker added protection from slips and short falls. Normally seen in use for crevasse rescue / protection and improvised or enforced abseils. They are really intended for use when no significant dynamic fall is likely. Not for use in climbing. Great as an additional safety aid for walking in UK mountains - but only if you know how to use it safely.