Graflex cameras in 4x5 have been the standard press camera for a huge amount of time. Since the early 1940's. Graflex ceased production of the 4x5's in the early 70's and some of the worlds most famous pictures were taken using 5x4 Graflex cameras. Often this was simply because the larger format allowed the use of very high-speed films without excessive grain in the finished print!

There are a mumber of variants, of the cameras, to identify the subtleties you should check with graflex.com (Non commercial) where how information on identifying each model shown.

Essentailly though there are two 'basic' models, the Speed Graphic, and the Crown Graphic. Later models include the Super Graphic, with a metal body.

The difference between the Speed, and the Crown is that the Speed Graphic has a focal plane shutter, allowing a 1/1000th shutter speed. The 'Crown' uses the lens shutter only, and usually means a maximum speed of 1/500

In the speed graphic. The focal plane shutter has two adjusments one adjust the tension, and one the slit width. The shutter employs a single curtain with several slits of varying lentgth. This means that while setting it up is a bit of a clart-about, you can rely on even exposure even if it is a bit worn. They sound a bit clunky when operated, but that's perfectly ok.

Shutter speeds can be finely tuned using the two controls, giving much more control over exposure than usual, the speed being selected from a table on a brass plate. It is worth noting that this means that even if the mainspring is a bit soft after 60 years of use, a bit of experimentation will allow you to compensate for this.

The 'Speed' was preferred by action photographers for the higher speed shutter. Note that in practice the lowest hand-held speed is be 1/250, so this gave the little bit extra room for hand held work.  

So which do you need?

It's unlikely that you will be using one of these magnificent beasts for sports photography, or candid shooting. (Try concealing this one in a trouser pocket and you will probably only succeed in attracting unwanted attention. "Is that a camera in your pocket?" etc.) So the Speed or Crown is simply a matter of taste.

It is quite common to find these with all sorts of custom modifications and extras.  The models with wooden bodies were ideal for screwing attachments to. Often bit's were unscrewed too. (Many of these were used by pro photographers who care more about the final result than how you get there, and if hacking a lump out of the side of the camera made it more comfortable for them to use, out came the hacksaw!) So make sure all the bits you want are there before buying.

Factors which will dictate the choice are condition, shutter type and choice of movements. (The lenses for these are all pretty much the same Tessar fomula. Not much to shoose from. Some may be better than others but it's just pot luck!)

Modern lenses can be used once mounted on a lens-board, so upgrades are not a problem.

Look out for damaged bellows. These can be re-built but getting it dome for you costs ££'s (If you can find anyone to do it.) There may be some do-it yourself bellows kits available in the future, and if these appear they are to be preferred to bellows cannibalised from other cameras. (This obviously results in one less camera in circulation.)

Shutters and lenses need to be in reasonable condition if you haven't already got a modern lens/shutter waithing to go in.

If the camera is a 'Speed' the blind may be in poor condition. It's not a complicated thing to re-make, but materials might be a problem. (Quite a big bit of rubberised silk!)  

Older shutters may not be synced for modern electronic flash. If this is important to you ask. It may be possible to electronically re-sync a shutter but I wouldn't count on it. Many shutters can be modified to sync, and this is not unlikely if the camera was still in use after the mid 60's. Ask!

The flash terminals are likley to be two pin type however.

Later shutters should be ok.

Rangefinders almost always need re-adjusting. Whatever the type, they are too easy to fiddle with and lose the setting. Graflex.com has pages on how to re-adjust these. 

Cracked focusing screens are less of a worry. These can be got for around £5, and are easy to fit. People still make 5x4 cameras, and so screens are still made. Really posh screens cost ££'s but that's your choice.

The Super Graphic is the latest model. Produced with lots of 'extras' such as electric shutter firing. Battery doors however are frequently missing, and terminals corroded. This won't stop the shutter working you still have manual controll, but it is still a useful bargaining point.

It is still however the overall preferred model, and can be modifed to give an extra back tilt movement without too much trouble. The shutters will be able to sync with modern flash unmodified too. Also as they are later they are likely to be in better condition and they should go for the top prices.

A word of warning with the older models. Early 1940's versions may not have the front tilt movement, and these will not have the Grafmatic removable back either. These should be avoided if you need these features.

BEWARE: Several models were made in smaller formats and it is difficult to tell them apart. Often 4-1/4x3-1/4 models are listed as 5x4. I've bough the wrong one byt mistake before, so watch out. Again check with graflex.com to sort out what from which.While you can still get cut film for these smaller formats film holders can be a bit more problematic, and besides if you want 5x4 that's what you want! 

These are much more common in the US, and less expensive from there but....

The shipping can be high, and you will have to pay VAT + an £8 handling fee to the shipping service before they will deliver. (Getting someone to make the customs note out to less that £36, and mark it gift is not going to work!) Also if there are problems, sending them back might prove problematic. (Better to negotiate a partial refund based on the cost of fixing the problem here.)

Expect ones sold in UK and EU to carry a heavier price. It's very likely these will have been imported and will inlcude import costs in the starting price. Expect to start in excess of £200. If you see one for less on a "Buy It Now" do just that. If it's a good one it's a bargain, but make sure it is a good one first!

That's about it really!