Hair inhibitors - How they work to Reduce Hair Growth

Hair originates in the hair follicles, which are located in the dermis, the skin layer just underneath the surface layer. Hair follicles are present all over the surface of the body except the lips, palms of the hands, and soles of the feet. New hair is made in the hair bulb at the base of the hair follicle. Living cells in the hair bulb reproduce and push upward. These cells quickly dry out, die, and compressed into a dense, hard mass that forms the hair shaft. The hair shaft, which is made up of dead protein, is covered by a delicate covering (cuticle) composed of platelike scales.

Hair follicles are unusual in that they undergo lifelong cycles of growth and regression. Active hair growth (anagen) is accompanied by hair shaft elongation, melanogenesis, and by massive keratinocyte proliferation, while hair follicle regression (catagen) is characterized by terminal differentiation and apoptosis, resulting in the resting stage (telogen) and in hair shaft shedding (exogen). The molecular mechanisms that are responsible for this tightly controlled process are still not clear, but in the last decade a large, yet limited number of growth factors, cytokines, neuropeptides, neurotransmitters, and hormones have been shown to play important regulatory roles.

Hair is morphologically a complex fiber consisting of a number of chemical components which provide its function and physical properties.  The main component of the hair-shaft is a keratinous protein which is a condensation polymer of amino acids. This Keratin constitutes 60% - 95% of the hairs' dry weight.

Hair growth, like all other bodily functions, has a normal cycle that it follows in every individual. Unless something like disease, unnatural events, or substances interrupts that cycle, the hair growth maintains a natural, consistent course throughout the lifetime of each individual.

Hair Removal

Body hair may be unattractive for cultural, social, cosmetic, or psychological reasons. Unwanted hair can result in feelings of embarrassment or emotional burden that may hold back one’s dealings with others or daily activities.

Hair removal depicts any technique of removing hair, especially from the human body.

• DEPILATION involves the part of the hair above the surface of the skin. The most common type of depilation is shaving. The use of chemical depilatories is another popular choice. This works by breaking the disulfide bonds that link the protein chains that give hair its strength, making the hair disintegrate.
  
  
• EPILATION is removal of the entire hair, including the part underneath the skin. This makes epilation longer lasting than depilation. Some people may use waxing, sugaring, epilation devices, lasers, threading, intense pulsed light or electrology. Hair is also sometimes removed by plucking with tweezers.
  

Hair removal has been practiced for centuries in almost all human cultures. There are several instances where hair removal is necessary, as in the case of excessive hair growth or because of aesthetic reasons. The methods used vary among times and regions, but shaving is the most common method.

Health Risks of Shaving:
A variety of staphylococcus infection, known as "community-acquired methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus" (MRSA), was identified following an outbreak among gay men in Los Angeles in 2003. Among the risk factors for transmission of the infection identified by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention is "compromised skin integrity." Researchers with the Connecticut Department of Public Health determined that "manscaping" (hair removal performed with a dry safety razor and powder) could produce micro-abrasions of the skin, compromising its integrity. Men who manscaped were six times more likely to contract the disease.

Researchers found that 10 percent of players on a Connecticut college football team had MRSA skin infections, for which two were hospitalized. Cornerbacks and wide receivers, which frequently come into direct contact with other players, accounted for the most MRSA cases. The athletes who practiced cosmetic body shaving had a 43 percent risk of infection. According to Dr. Elizabeth Begier, lead author of the study, "You may not notice it, but when you are shaving, you create micro-abrasions". The researchers recommend discontinuing the practice of body shaving to decrease the risk of infection.

Aside from shaving, there are products that are popular for topical use in the removal of unwanted hair. These are depilatories (cream hair removers) that mostly based on thioglycollates, barium sulfide, and alkalis (sodium or calcium hydroxide) as the active ingredient (Veet, Nair). These depilatories are popular because they are not painful unlike waxing methods. The ingredient thioglycollate at high pH works as a reducing agent by diminishing disulfide bonds in hair. After the penetration, the hair is weakened in the area above the keratinizing zone. The hair shaft may then be broken off just beneath the skin surface resulting in a soft, smooth skin surface. However, hair growth does not cease and since the hair is broken in close proximity to the surface, regrowth occurs within a relatively short period.

Depilatories offer smooth, hair free skin for up to three to five days. These hair removal products in essence melt the hair through chemical ingredients. Treating repeatedly with depilatories is necessary if the skin is to be maintained in a hairless state. There is consumer resentment to the frequent and repetitive use of hair removal products based on thioglycollates since skin irritation is not unusual.

This gave rise to the development of alternative hair removal products, called hair inhibitors that are used after using other common methods of hair removal like shaving or waxing.

What are Hair Inhibitors?

Hair inhibitors (Kalo, Hair No More,Vaniqa) are products that are usually used by individuals who suffer from excessive hair growth or those who simply want to slow down hair growth in certain areas of the body, without undergoing through a painful procedure. It will also reduce the frequency of shaving, even the number of times a man has to shave facial hair. Hair inhibitors are especially useful for models, bodybuilders, swimmers, cyclists, fitness models, and gymnasts -- just about anyone who desires an attractive hair free body. In particular, it is desirable to remove unwanted hair for cosmetic reasons.

Hair inhibitors lessen the need for frequent shaving or waxing by infusing the hair follicle and disabling the process of hair growth. Growth inhibitors do this without harming skin tissue or causing irritation. These hair inhibitors will slow down subsequent hair growth and oftentimes, hair growth stops in treated areas with repetitive use.

The most common areas where hair inhibitor products are used are on facial hair especially on the upper lip, chin, sideburns, ear hair and eyebrows. These are also used on leg hair, chest and back hair, arm and leg hair, and also on bikini line and pubic hair. These hair inhibitors are natural products that can be used on even the most sensitive areas of the body such as the pubic areas and bikini lines. It is even safe to use on children for parents who are concerned about removing excessive hair growth.

These products are especially valuable for those who want to have a great looking hair-free body. It is the painless answer for inhibiting hair growth and even ultimate hair removal. Products frequently come in lotion, cream or spray forms and are generally applied directly to the area where traditional hair removal method has been performed.

The amount of hairs per area of the skin is preset by heredity. Your racial background determines the number of hair follicles and their location. There are two types of hairs,

• Vellus hairs - short, fine nonpigmented hairs that have not responded to hormones
• Terminal hairs - long, coarse and pigmented hairs responsive to hormonal influence
  

The primary component of hair fiber is keratin. Keratins are proteins, long chains of amino acids. Keratin proteins form the cytoskeleton of all epidermal cells.

In hair fiber, keratin proteins comprise 65-95% of the total hair fiber by weight. Each molecule of keratin is very small - about 10 nanometers across. To give you a sense of how small that is, 10,000 keratin molecules lined up side by side would cover the width of the average terminal scalp hair. There are several subtypes of keratin proteins, some are called "soft" keratins and others are "hard" keratins. Basically, soft keratins are found in the skin and are relatively easy to break down whereas hard keratins are very resistant to degradation. Hard keratins do not dissolve in water and they are highly resistant to proteolytic enzymes -- hair fiber is mostly made from hard keratin proteins.6

Hair contains a high amount of sulfur because the amino acid cysteine is a key component of the keratin proteins in hair fiber. The sulfur in cysteine molecules in adjacent keratin proteins link together in disulfide chemical bonds. These disulfide bonds are very strong and very difficult to break apart. These disulfide chemical bonds linking the keratins together are the key factor in the durability and resistance of hair fiber to degradation under environmental stress. They are largely resistant to the action of acids but the disulfide bonds can be broken apart by alkali solutions.

In terms of raw elements, on average, hair is composed of 50.65% carbon, 20.85% oxygen, 17.14% nitrogen, 6.36% hydrogen, and 5.0% sulfur. Hair sulfur levels are susceptible to external influences, particularly from hair chemicals that lower sulfur content. Sulfur deficient hair is slow growing and brittle.

Sulfur is present in four amino acids: methionine, an essential amino acid; the nonessential cystine and cysteine, which can be made from methionine; and taurine. Sulfur is also present in two B vitamins, thiamine and biotin. Sulfur is also available as various sulfates or sulfides. But overall, sulfur is most important as part of protein. Sulfur is stored in all body cells, especially the skin, hair, and nails. As part of four amino acids, sulfur performs a number of functions in enzyme reactions and protein synthesis. It is necessary for formation of collagen, the protein found in connective tissue in our bodies. Sulfur is also present in keratin, which is necessary for the maintenance of hair, helping to give strength, shape, and hardness.

The triple compound action of the sulfur reducers in hair inhibitor products, such as those found in Kalo, effectively inhibit hair growth. The organic extracts in the product weaken and debilitate the hair.

The sulfur reducer is an organic compound that prevents the formation of necessary sulfur linkages. Since sulfur is an important and necessary ingredient in hair, by preventing the formation of sulfur, you can prevent hair from growing.

The mechanism involves a catalyst to weaken the roots of hair and inhibits its ability to regenerate. A catalyst is a substance that increases the rate of a chemical reaction by reducing the activation energy, but which is left unchanged by the reaction. When used in combination with common methods of hair removal, these inhibitors will dramatically reduce the rate at which hair re-grows and the amount of hair that re-grows.

Hair Inhibitor Products:

Vaniqa is a prescription hair inhibitor that comes in cream form. It contains 13.9% (139 mg/g) of anhydrous eflornithine hydrochloride as eflornithine hydrochloride monohydrate (150 mg/g). It is a prescription cream applied to the skin for reducing unwanted facial hair in women ages 12 and older. It has only been studied on the face and adjacent involved areas under the chin of affected individuals. Usage should be limited to these areas of involvement.

Eflornithine was originally developed as a cure for some types of African "sleeping sickness," even able to cause a rapid and complete recovery in comatose patients. Clinical reports show that taking it orally to treat sleeping sickness can induce hair loss as a side effect.

Animal data indicate that inhibition of ornithine decarboxylase inhibits cell division and synthetic functions, which affect the rate of hair growth. Vaniqa has been shown to retard the rate of hair growth in non-clinical and clinical studies. Results of the topical dermal study for contact irritation did reveal that Vaniqa could cause irritation reactions in clinical use in susceptible individuals or under conditions of exaggerated use. This medication is not a depilatory, but rather appears to retard hair growth to improve the condition and the patient’s appearance. Patients will likely need to continue using a hair removal method (e.g., shaving, plucking, etc.) in conjunction with Vaniqa. Onset of improvement was seen after as little as 4-8 weeks of treatment in the 24-week clinical trials. The condition may return to pretreatment levels 8 weeks after discontinuing treatment. The risk/benefit ratio of using Vaniqa in women with unwanted facial hair who are pregnant should be weighed carefully with serious consideration for either not implementing or discontinuing use of Vaniqa. Caution should be exercised when Vaniqa is administered to nursing women.


Hair No More by Skin Doctors is another hair inhibitor topical spray solution made from a formula containing plant enzymes that assist is slowing down the hair follicle regrowth. It gets into the pores of the skin and saturates the hair bulb. The liquid in the formula then starves the hair at the roots and inhibits hair cells from germinating to slow down the regrowth of hair. Over time Hair No More can also change the appearance of thick, coarse hair to softer and finer hair. In many cases, after long-term use, the hair doesn’t appear again. Hair No More may be used on the face or body. For best results, a liberal amount should be sprayed onto epilated areas.