Welcome to First4Models

"Whether you are an experienced modeller and know what you are looking for or just starting out and need a helping hand, my aim is to help you enjoy this hobby to the full by offering a great selection of models, and really useful and unique help and advice to help you along the way"... My Moto

Being an avid modeller myself, I decided to put pen to paper on many of the hints and tips I have discovered through hours of roaming modelling internet sites, stumbled upon or developed myself over the years.

Applying a wash to create a weathering effect...

Weathering looks can be a great addition to any model, especially those that aircraft / models that were around decades ago, or have just come back from the heat of battle.

Applying a wash helps create a weathered / used look. It creates the impression of dust or dirty grease which has collected in recesses. The technique can also be used to create shadowed areas such as with panel lines, entrances to vehicles or even gaps between bricks and tiles on buildings.

All you need to do is mix an appropriate dark paint - depending on the desired affect - with a largeramount of thinner.

Then brush it on to the surface with a large flat brush. The ratio should be around 1 part paint to 4 – 5 parts thinners. When you apply the wash, don’t worry it naturally runs and collects in the recesses of the model, (this is what you want) where it dries leaving the raised parts of the model untouched. Do not apply so much wash that liquid pours off the model (making a mess everywhere) and also remember to let it dry thoroughly before further painting. Storing in a warm dry place or even using a hair dryer can speed up this process.

Please note, any wash that ruins on an undesired part of the model can be wiped off easily and quickly.

How to accentuate panel lines...

To accentuate, or essentially make panel lines stand out from the rest of the model, such as on an aircraft wing, there are a number of techniques.

The effect is of shadowing and of dirt and grease collecting in crevasses that are hard to clean; helps create this dark to light surface illusion.

Methods involve drawing the lines with a finely pointed pencil, pen or dipping a cocktail stick into some paint. Applying weathering pigments either with or without a wash.

What glue should be used to stop clear plastic from frosting on the edges...

To avoid clear plastic, such as canopies, from being frosted or turning white during gluing, you need to avoid most super-glue when fixing these parts to a model. As these cause the problems

But what glue to use?

There are a number of specifically designed 'canopy glues' available out there, and most water-based white (PVA) glues will work wonders too. The PVA glue developed for modelling has been treated for added strength, so you don’t have to worry about it coming unstuck.

Stop acrylic paints pealing and distorting....

The adhesive qualities of acrylic are not as forgiving as enamel, you are either aware of this if you are an experience modeller, or you will become aware of this very soon if you are new to the hobby. To avoid pealing or distorting of acrylic paints you must prepare the surface of the plastic thoroughly.

This starts with cleaning the parts thoroughly with warm water and basic household detergent. Once the parts are completely dry, prime the surface with a good plastic primmer. Leave to dry thoroughly and then apply the top coat in 2-3 thin layers (as opposed to one thick layer). Please note, this may involve thinning the paint first. Using this technique the paint will bind the surface properly giving you a consistent high quality finish and stop the pealing / distorting that we all loath.

How to fade a painted model...

One way to fade a painted model is by adding a touch of white to some matt varnish and spray it onto the model with an airbrush.

You may need to apply a few coats to achieve the required affect.

To vary the density of the faded effect simply apply more paint to some areas than others.

Paint Chipping and scuffing effects...

You can add paint chipping and scuffing effects by drawing the desired markings on the dry paint surface using a silver pencil. However make sure the paint is totally dry!

Another method is to paint the area with the required undercoat colour first (this can be steel, aluminium, copper etc). Once dry apply masking liquid to the areas where the chipping effect is required.

Again, once dry, paint over the required top coat and when this is dry rub off the masking to reveal the metallic paint underneath, this from experience takes a lot longer however gives a much better effect.

On a surface that has been painted with an undercoat, lightly mist with water and sprinkle on table salt. Leave this to dry and follow up with a top coat of paint. When this has dried the salt underneath can be rubbed off revealing simulated chipping down to the undercoat.

Cleaning up epoxy glue using baby wipes...

FineScale Modeler Newsletter - October 24, 2007, which contained the below tip.

"A great way to clean up epoxy is with baby wipes. The chemicals in the wipes will clean the epoxy off plastic and almost anything else (even fingers). I use epoxy as a strong filler in wing roots on large models, and the wipes clean adjacent surfaces with one pass."

Overcoming stubborn scratches with Future Klear Floor Polish...

If you have got board of or run out of plastic to further sand out stubborn scratches one suggested solution is to apply a thick coat of Future Klear floor polish. I haven't tried it yet, but it makes sense. I suppose this is what the stuff was designed for the in first place: to fill in the scratches in floor surfaces to give the impression of smoothness.

Dry brushing...

The art of dry brushing is an extraordinary technique that creates realistic looking airplane model kits, especially in the cockpit.

I dry brush almost all the cockpits with Flat White. Dip your brush into the bottle and then remove about 95% of the paint.

Careful! Too much paint and you may have to repaint the whole thing to the original colour. Next, take your brush and wipe down the areas where you think is most beneficial (e.g.instrumental panels, sidewalls, bottoms, edges, etc.). You want to add depth to your cockpit especially around dark areas and raised detailed areas. Follow these steps and enjoy the effects, you will not be disappointed.

Achieving a paint wear and chipping effect...

Worn paint and a chipping effect is a brilliant way to achieve a dirty, and realistic looking scale model aircraft.

To get this effect, prime the entire model aircraft with a grey plastic primer. Wait until this application is dry then coat the model with flat Aluminium paint and dry overnight (recommendable to wait 24 hours to dry).

Using an acrylic paint, spray the model aircraft colour scheme and let dry for about 1½ hour. At this point, you should be able to hold the model and not leave fingerprints.

Take some tape, press it onto the surface of the scale model aircraft and peel off fast. Apply this effect wherever is necessary (e.g. wing roots, propeller blades, cowling, etc).

This should pull up some colour leaving the silver showing through. It takes some work and if the paint is too dry, you will need a stronger tape, like duct tape. Coating the model aircraft with future floor wax will cause the paints to blend, leaving a high-quality paint chip effect.

Paint chipping on the Wing Root...

On World War 2 aircraft is was quite common for the paint between the fuselage and the wing root to be damaged by the pilot and ground crew walking up and down to the cockpit.

For this you can use a silver pencil. Using the tip of the silver pencil start creating the chipping by applying small dots on the wing root. Applying dots will give you better control of the pencil and create a more realistic effect. DO NOT DRAW on the model or it will look like it was drawn.

Enamel or Acrylic..?

What type of paint you use is up to you. I have good reasons to use enamel paint - I've got used to it, its easily available and the colours are repeatable. But do take a look at Acrylic paints too before you commit yourself to a particular type of paint only.

As a pointer for now, Acrylic paint is rather thinner in my experience, doesn't always cover with one coat, and can be streaky. But it does have the big advantage that it is very unlikely to react with other paint. In contrast enamels can cause difficulties if over coated with the wrong top coats or varnishes. Lacquer paints on the other hand can actually destroy plastic, so be careful!

Applying putty to your model neatly, with virtually no mess...

Using putty filler is a major obstacle for many modellers. The stuff gets everywhere and before you know it, it is either dry or has melted the plastic meaning that you have to leave it well alone before sanding.

The following technique can be used to ensure that putty is applied neatly, in just the right place, with virtually no mess!

The idea is to mask off the areas that you do not want to get putty on. For example if you need to fill in a wing root (where the wing joins the fuselage of an aeroplane) you mask off around the join that needs filling. Then you would spread the putty along the exposed wing root join using a palette knife.

The next instruction was to smooth the putty by using a cotton bud dipped in acetone-based nail polish remover and use it to wipe over the putty-filled area to remove the excess and smooth it over.

Pre shading and Post shading...

Both post-shading and pre-shading techniques are used to add depth to a model using an airbrush. There is often disagreement in the hobby over the relative benefits and ease of use of each method but with all techniques it is practice that helps get the most out of all techniques Pre-shading involves spraying a dark colour over the panel lines, wing roots and other areas that do not receive a lot of wear and tear or collect grime with use. This is applied after a lighter primer has been sprayed on the model, but before the main coat. The post-shading streaking along panel lines should be applied using a highly thinned paint and applied in several coats to ensure that you don't overdo it. The idea is that the underlying pre-shading can be seen below the top coat to give the impression of depth and differential wear and tear.

Post-shading is designed to achieve a similar effect but through spraying those same areas of the model after the main coat of paint and preferably after a coat of Johnsons Klear or varnish has been applied. With post-shading it is even more important to have a highly diluted paint, almost to the point where there does not seem to be any paint being laid down with each pass. You however will notice the gradual accumulation of paint with successive passes.

You need to use your judgement to know when to stop, but if you do overdo it you can always overspray with a lighter shade again!

Use graphite to simulate wear and tear and grime...

Ground lead from a pencil is an excellent way to introduce a grimey but metallic worn look to a model. Using our finger rub the graphite powder along the leading edges of propeller blades and wing roots of WW2 era piston engined aircraft where exhaust staining and abrasive wear from pilot and crew activity can be manifested. The technique can also be used on military vehicle models to simulate exhaust staining and exposed steel body panels as a result of wearing.

Can putty be used to weigh down a model...?

Putty can be used to weight down a model, for example to prevent a plane tipping up on its tail. However there is a risk of the plastic being weakened due to the solvent content of the putty and it is quite an expensive way of achieving the goal. All things considered I would not advise it, unless you let it dry outside of the model and then secure it inside. A more  appropriate and economical method is to use scrap pieces of steel or lead, such as nuts and bolts, pieces of exterior window flashing or fishing weights.

Extreme Weathering...

Late in WWII Japanese aircraft paint was of very poor quality. With the heat of the Pacific area, plus sea air, monsoon rain, coral dust, etc. the unprimed surface soon wore off, leaving bare metal showing through in a very patchy way. This is a great effect!

Painting

Leave off the canopy, undercart, props, guns, etc. until after the weathering is completed.

1. Mask off the cockpit and engine. Spray acrylic grey primer over all surfaces of the airframe and prop.

2. When dry, spray the above with Silver Grey and leave for 48hrs to harden.

3. Paint over all surfaces to be weathered with Johnsons Klear (Future). 2 coats are best.

4. I use enamels for this method and paint the prop and all surfaces the correct colours. Leave until safe to handle.

Now the fun starts, because of the barrier of Klear the paint will chip off easily with a blunt blade, leaving the silver showing through. If possible, copy photos of the real aircraft to see where the wearwas. Work slowly and carefully. If you accidentally over do it you can repaint and area and start again.

Natural Metal Finishes Using aluminium powder and varnish...

Smooth down the surface of your model, assemble main body parts fully if possible, using whatever medium you feel necessary, i.e. wet and dry paper, buffing creams etc., until you achieve the highest level of smoothness. This is paramount to the success of this technique.

Prime the entire model with polyurethane varnish 50% thinned with white spirit.

Leave for 24 hours, check over for defects and lightly rub down. Be careful not to erase your primer layer; if you do so you must repeat this process.

Apply one coat of thinned varnish mixed as before. Wait approx. 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 hours subject to room temperature.

Apply the aluminium powder with a cotton bud direct to the model surface. This is truly a worthwhile moment as the bright silver finish is immediate.

Note: this powder goes everywhere, protect your work surface and keep away from drafts.

As you hastily apply this powder to achieve an even finish you can buff the entire surface with a soft cloth dipped in powder. This will provide a uniform layer and level of shine.

Note: do not handle the model at this time, use gloves or cloth.

To seal or fix this system, apply acrylic clear coat or Klear floor polish. (But not spirit based, as this will dull the finish. If you wish a brighter finish before you apply a sealer coat simply repeat the finish. To enhance your models even further try rubbing graphite powder into designated areas, ink washes etc.

Mud, mud, glorious mud...

Mud can be made by mixing an appropriate paint with some Baking Powder (Bicarbonate of Soda) into a fairly stiff mix.

Use a stiff, worn out brush, to stipple the mixture onto tyres, tank tracks and edges of roads.

As it dries the baking powder produces bubbles of gas, which gives a rough texture to the finish. Add some static grass to the mix and stipple onto tank tracks for an impression that it has driven over grass. A light dry brush with green paint when it has dried will make it look like fresh grass. You can also add tea leaves, sawdust, sand, etc. to vary the texture.

Please note this guide should be used for reference only and please be mindful of ours and others health and safety while enjoying your hobby.

Many Thanks for reading my guide and I hope you have found it useful

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