Welcome to my guide for the Great little T-Top that is the Nissan 100NX

I will list some common problems that you may encounter as a 100nx owner .

1 . RUST !  ~ like many japanese cars rust is a killer , check the rear arches , and if you can get the whole underside Waxoiled .

2. Timing Chain ~ unlike most cars , the 100nx has a timing chain instead of a timing belt , this chain is made to last approx 100,000 miles , so check before you buy as it may need adjusted or worse replaced .

3. water leaks ~ check the seals on the tbar roof for signs of leakage .

The CV joints , Distributor , rear boot struts , and general electrical system are all points to look at as they commonly fail , BUT other models in the Nissan range share parts ( Nissan sunny , sunny GT , bluebird , primera .... etc etc )




My 1995 Nissan 100NX , along with My 1988 Nissan 300ZX















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Introduction

2+2 coupe based on the reliable Nissan Sunny, conceived as a rival to Honda’s CR-X

Sold in Japan, UK, Germany, France, Italy, USA and elsewhere.

Three sub models exist – (all DOHC)

The 1600cc 90BHP carburettor version (Jan 1991- Feb 1993), with the GA16DS engine

The 1600cc 105BHP injection version (from 1993), with the GA16DE engine

The 2000cc 143BHP injection version (from 1991), with the SR20DE engine.

The 2litre version (aka NX2000 or GTi) has an air scoop on the bonnet. The SR20DE engine is as fitted to the Primera (P10), Primera (P11), Sunny GTI (N14), Almera GTI (N15). It is different from the SR20De and SR20DET (turbo) engines. Unfortunately this car was not sold in the UK L


Although based on the Sunny, it has alloy wheels, Targa roof (T-Top), up-rated/stiffened suspension, moulded seats, 4 speaker stereo, electric windows, electric mirrors, adjustable steering wheel and front fog lamps. It does not have air conditioning, ABS, electric aerial
(I don’t know if later or non-UK models have these).

There was a Pacific model released at the end (105BHP). I don’t know what special features it had.

 

Performance

90HP - 115mph 0-60 9.8s

105HP – slightly better than the above (no figures)

143HP – 132mph 0-32 8s

Of course, the figures you get from different places tend to vary a little)

90HP: I’ve had 121mph/195kmh (in Germany) 2 up plus luggage on the flat. This was with the K&N modification below. I ran out of road before I ran out of power. You should easily be able to reach 125mph, and possibly tweak 130mph downhill with the wind behind you etc etc. Only try this in Germany!!!

 

Bits and pieces


Spark plugs – change them every 6 months, use normal NGK types. Don’t bother with fancy electrodes.

Oil – Change every 6 months (along with the filter). Use synthetic based.

Rear parcel shelf clips – Ping!! Next time you visit your Nissan main dealer, buy a couple of spares ones.

Rear shock absorbers – they can be VERY expensive (£200) Shop around, and you may find them for £65.

Roof-rack – forget it!! But you can fit an 8’ length of timber in the car, even with a passenger.

Fuel – Super unleaded (95 RON); super-plus (97 RON) is not necessary, but do give Shell’s Optimax a try – a few tankfuls and you should be pleasantly surprised. Unfortunately the 90HP carburettor version can be a bit thirsty if you use the throttle past the half-way point a lot.

Tyres – Pirelli P6000 (or P4000 if you’re on a budget)

Dim-dip unit – If you need it, it’s located down by the driver’s right leg (on the right hand drive UK model) behind the floor cloth.

Radio – If you’re changing the factory fitted Clarion model for something else you can get a connector kit from Lucas Automotive spares – it makes life easier. Note – there is no earth/ground lead, as the radio is earthed through the chassis. Don’t make the mistake of connecting the illumination lead to the earth on your new radio, as you’ll blow a fuse every time you switch the lights on

Aerial – The car has a regular antenna (which you can extend up whilst sat in the driving seat). It also has an ‘FM diversity’ antenna on the rear window, above the demister. The factory fitted radio (above) chooses from whichever antenna gives the best reception. The connection kit (above) just joins the two antennae together.

Electric windows – If your auto close/open switch looses its click there’s not much you can do about it, save buying a new switch module. However, it will continue to operate normally, despite the lost click.

Central locking – If your passenger door seems to lock and unlock itself as it feels like you will need to remove and clean the switch on the driver’s door. This involves removing the whole door lock (which in turn involves the removal of the interior door panel). A fiddly process, but I’ve done it a few times. There is also some room for adjustment on the locking bar (rod), where the two

HT leads – yes, they will rot. A snapped HT lead can be mended with half a safety pin and half a reel of insulation tape. Go and buy some decent ones, and don’t forget the king (5th) lead.

Distributor rotor arm – Changing this can be a good thing, but take a note of your chassis number and/or the exact part number stamped on your distributor, as a few different ones have been used.

Windscreen seal – If the black rubber surround to your windscreen splits then Loctite produce a black gooey compound for exactly this job.

Fan motor

If your fan stops working on speeds 1-3, but continues on 4, then you need a new fan motor resistance board (something like £10-15).

You will find this item down in the passenger foot well – you need not remove the glove box.

There is a connector about 2" wide at the bottom of the fan assembly – remove this (press the tab and pull down). Unscrew (PH#2) the two screws and withdraw the resistance board. One of the fusible links will have blown.

If your new board looks slightly different to the old one don’t worry – Nissan have changed the design slightly.

 

Air filter modification

The 90HP carburettor engine has a common fault. Around 3000rpm the engine seems to suffer from ‘turbo-lag’ – i.e. a slight pause or dip in power. This is due to the Nissan engine design team bordering on the economical instead of performance side. This can be cured by new spark plugs, new HT leads and changing the air filter as follows

You will need a K&N RU-1480 @ £26.64 + VAT (or possibly an RU-1460/1470). Get this from your local K&N air filter stockist, who will probably have to order it in for you.

It is a round straight air filter, 180mm long, 102mm diameter, with a 70mm throat and a 10° bend.

To fit it you will need a wide bladed screwdriver, a sharp knife and some cable ties.

Disconnect the battery negative lead

Disconnect the battery positive lead

Remove the four clips around the edges of the existing air filter box (above the carburettor).

Remove the thumbscrew and wing nut on top of the air filter box.

Carefully lift the top of the air filter box and remove the paper element inside.

Detach and remove the air intake from the end of the air filter box.

Underneath the right hand side of the air filter box you will find a small pipe.

This operates a vacuum switch that draws warmer air from off the exhaust manifold when the engine is cold.

Place a bung in the end of the pipe and leave it disconnected.

Replace the top of the air filter box – the clips can be fiddly.

Replace the thumbscrew and wing nut.

The air intake pipe has a cross section as follows

___/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\____ which then bends around the side of the battery.

Cut through the pipe to get the following (three ridges).

___/\/\/\

Check the new air filter mounts onto the end of the pipe, then remove it.

Also remove the condensation collection box and its rubber supports from behind the battery – these are no longer needed.

(The mounting bracket onto which this box fitted makes an ideal support for a compressor for two-tone air horns)

Replace the pipe onto the end of the air filter box.

Fit the new air filter onto the end of the pipe and tighten the large jubilee clip.

Use a few cable ties to help stabilize the air filter.

Reconnect the battery positive lead

Reconnect the battery negative lead

Now take your car to your local service garage to have the mixtures set to work with the new increased airflow available.

With the new air filter in place it makes a great induction noise from 4000rpm. Lovely!

Apparently you should tell your insurance company about this ‘performance’ modification.

 

Air re-circulation control

The Fresh Air/Re-Circulated Air control can get stuck. Here’s how to fix it.

You will need Phillips No.2 and No.3 screwdrivers. Your No.3 should have a blade of at least 9" You will also need a 10mm socket wrench.

There are lots of screws involved. Try not to get them mixed up. Where possible store them in the holes you have removed them from.

Remove the two screws (PH#2) at the bottom of the glove compartment.

Remove the plastic covers.

Turn and the pull sideways the two plastic handles which hold the bottom of the glovebox

Open the glove box catch and remove the whole thing.

You can quite happily see the fan housing on the left – we wish to remove the whole thing, but part of the fascia is in the way, as well as a metal bar.

Remove the three screws (PH#2) holding in the left-hand fascia panel. Remove the panel.

Remove the four screws (PH#2) holding in the horizontal metal bar, and remove the bar.

Remove the four gold-colored screws holding in the middle air box (PH#3)

Pull the air box down towards you and it should come out.

Remove the two connectors at the bottom of the motor (one goes to the motor resistance board mentioned above under Fan Motor)

Remove the three screws (PH#2) holding in the fan motor and carefully remove the motor. Put it somewhere safe.

Remove the two nuts (10mm) at the back, which are holding the lower part of the fan housing.

Look up and under the dash – you can see the top screw (PH#3) for the fan housing. Remove it (carefully). This screw has a fine/machine thread; all the others you have removed are coarse threads (self-tapping).

You should now be able to remove the fan housing (still with the re-circulation control cable attached).

Examine the lever and its action. The control cable (wire) actuates an arm. This plastic arm has a simple spring, and also engages with a brass-coloured metal arm. Carefully prise the plastic arm out from the metal arm.

Examine the action of the metal arm – is it happy? The metal arm controls the flap inside the box and is attached by two screws. One or both of these screws may have fallen out. Replace them.

Use silicone grease as a lubricant on all the moving parts.

Carefully reattach the two arms (plastic and metal).

Check the control lever now opens and closes the flap. More lubricant if necessary.

The flap should be fully open or fully closed. You may need to play with the sheath of the control cable if this is not the case.

Re-assembly is the reverse of the above procedure.

** Thanks and god like appreciation go out to Bruce Stedman , for the help and guides and all the people over at 100nx . com ( sadly no longer there :(  **

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what wiki says

The Nissan NX is a car produced by Nissan Motors.
The Nissan NX was essentially a B13 platform Nissan Sentra or Sunny with a different body shell.
The NX was, loosely, an evolution of the Nissan Pulsar NX/Nissan EXA sold from 1987-1990, and it also replaced the Nissan Sentra hatchback.



    * 1 Models
          o 1.1 NX1600/NX2000 (North America)
          o 1.2 100NX (Europe)
          o 1.3 NX Coupe (Japan)
  

 Models

NX1600/NX2000 (North America)

The NX1600 was based on the standard 1.6L Sentra (engine code GA16DE), and the NX2000 was based on the 2.0 L SE-R model (engine code SR20DE). It was produced from 1991-1993 in the US (mainly competing with the Mazda MX-3 and Honda CR-X del Sol), before being replaced by the 200SX for 1995. Also, it was produced for a few more years in other countries.

The NX2000 model had some mechanical improvements over its SE-R sibling. It had larger brakes and more aggressive tires on wider 6" wheels (195/55VR-14 with 14x6" wheels vs. the 185/60HR-14 with 14x5.5" wheels and tires in the SE-R). The NX2000 brakes are a common aftermarket upgrade for B13 Sentra SE-Rs. The NX2000 also had a center armrest, a larger two core radiator, and slightly lower ride height compared to the SE-R. However, the T-top roof in the NX2000 along with the mechanical upgrades made it slightly heavier than the SE-R.

The NX2000, with its light weight, stiff chassis, and limited-slip differential, was considered one of the best-handling front-wheel-drive cars of the time. In 1992, Road & Track magazine included the NX2000 in a test of the world's best handling cars against such competition as the Acura NSX, Porsche 911, Nissan 300ZX, Mazda Miata, and Lotus Elan.

 100NX (Europe)

The 100NX came with two engine options, a 1.6 L and a 2.0 L.

The 1.6 liter, made from 1990 to February of 1993 had a carburetor fitted which tended to consume excessive fuel as it aged. From April of 1993 onwards, the 100NX was sold with a more efficient fuel injected setup.

    * 1.6 carbureted — 89 bhp
    * 1.6 fuel injected — 105 bhp
    * 2.0 fuel injected — 140 bhp

The 1.6 liter fuel injected version achieved 0-60 mph in 10.5 seconds and had a top speed of 121 mph.

The 100NX was mainly sold with a T-bar removable roof in the United Kingdom.

 NX Coupe (Japan)

The Nissan NX was also sold in the Japanese domestic market as the Nissan NX Coupe. Some models were fitted with T-Tops, whilst others were hardtop. The Japanese domestic NX Coupe's came with either a 1.5 DOHC carburetted engine (GA15(DS)), a 1.6 DOHC EFI engine (GA16(DE)), a 1.8 DOHC EFI engine (SR18(DE)) or the rare 2.0 DOHC EFI engine (SR20DE). The model was available in automatic or manual transmission. The 1.5 DOHC models were all fitted with digital speedometers, whilst all other engine versions had the standard analogue gage. All Japanese domestic models were fitted with electric windows, air conditioning, power steering, electric mirrors and central locking which locked the doors automatically at 18 km/h whilst driving. The car was different in the Japanese market in that it did not have an ECO option with the A/C system. Almost all Japanese cars have this option but the NX didn't.
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