WHO ARE THE ACTION FIGURE AUTHORITY? (When you see "AFA" on an Item)

The Action Figure Authority are a company in the U.S.A. (within the Collectible Grading Authority Inc. family) that was set up to create an unbiased grading of action figures and toys.

LIMITATION OF THE GUIDE

FOR THIS SIMPLE GUIDE "STAR WARS FIGURES" HAVE BEEN USED AS EXAMPLES OF WHAT THEY DO. BUT IT IS NOT LIMITED TO THOSE FIGURES. MANY TRANSFORMERS, FUTURAMA, MASTERS OF THE UNIVERSE, THE SIMPSONS, MATCHBOX, CORGI ETC ARE GRADED AND THE SAME PRINCIPLE APPLIES TO ALL.

WHY DO THEY EXIST?

The reason they were set up was to avoid the confusion of collectors thinking their figures were mint and trying to sell them as such when they were far from it. Also to help collectors protect their items for the future. Many collectors think a C10 is a mint condition figure when in fact there are loads of figures in a lot better condition, hence an unbiased grading was needed. No AFA employee is allowed to buy or sell AFA graded figures and they DO NOT VALUE your figure.

Your action figures and toys, whether carded or loose can be sent to the AFA in the USA and are usually graded in 3 categories (Card, Bubble and Figure) and are then given an overall grading (which is NOT an average of the three). They are then encased in very hard acrylic and you can even have UV protection added if you wish to put your figures on display with the confidence that they will not yellow through the acrylic. When they grade loose figures they only give one grade.

IF YOU SEND THEM A RE-SEAL, FAKE OR ANY FIGURE THAT HAS BEEN TOUCHED UP IN ANY WAY THEY WILL RETURN IT UNGRADED AND THEY WILL SEND YOU A DETAILED REPORT OF WHY IT HAS BEEN REFUSED A GRADING. THEREFORE THEY WILL NOT GRADE ANY CUSTOM FIGURES.

OVERALL GRADING SYSTEM

The Grading Scale is as follows:

100 = GEM

95 = MINT

90 = NEAR MINT + / MINT

85 = NEAR MINT +

80 = NEAR MINT

75 = EXCELLENT + / NEAR MINT

70 = EXCELLENT +

60 = EXCELLENT

50 = VERY GOOD

40 = GOOD

30 = FAIR

20 = POOR

10 = VERY POOR

THE CARD

ANY crease, dink on the corner, which makes the corner curl and slightly split, ANY edge wear or any scuff on the card will lower the overall grade. Even the slight clip of the machine that cuts the card in the factory (which is about 0.5mm) You may see them as little "bobbles" on the edge of the card, that is seen as an imperfection!. This may seem as a ridiculous attention to detail but when the difference between an 80 and 85 could be £200 it suddenly becomes important. The quality of the colour of the card is also a factor, glossy and vibrant is an important factor. See Also "Yellowing" below: Most things which are in direct or indirect contact with sunlight will yellow. This is caused by the suns Ultra Violet (UV) light rays (the stuff we can't see).

WHAT ABOUT PRICE STICKERS ON THE CARD?

Here's what the AFA themselves say about this. Price stickers are generally not considered major flaws, but only become a factor if curling, tearing, staining, picking, etc. of the sticker has occurred. The location of the sticker is also a factor, though most are placed in an area such as a corner that does not detract from the overall appearance of the card. Basically, the condition of the sticker factors into the card subgrade, and from there into the overall grade of the piece.

THE BUBBLE OR BLISTER

ANY dink, crease, dirt, smudging, tearing or seal loosening from the card will lower the grade of the bubble and therefore lower the overall grade FOR A YELLOWING DESCRIPTION SEE BELOW.

THE FIGURE

The vintage figures such as the ones from the period 1978-1985 had larger bubbles in which the figure was placed in. The modern figures have specifically designed bubbles which fit each figure individually, it is moulded specifically for each figure. This means the newer figures have less chance of damage through transit or movement. For example, take a vintage figure and shake it (seriously not advised by the way!) and there will be more "give" between the actual figure and the bubble. All this means is that there is more chance of damage to the actual figure in vintage figures. Any damage to the figure is classed as a flaw, such a weapon moving away from its original sealed position, or any paint flaking.

SENDING FACTORY SEALED CASES STRAIGHT TO THE AFA TO GET THAT "U" GRADING

Here's what the AFA actually say about this. Send in your action figures from unopened factory sealed cases and AFA will only grade the figures that you choose. They will be graded as "Uncirculated". We will also wear protective gloves to ensure that your figures remain untouched since they were packaged at the factory. Since it is impossible to determine the condition of the figures inside a sealed case we can screen figures from the case at the customers request. If you'd like us to screen the figures before grading them you should choose a minimum grade and we will grade and call only the figures that will fall within that criteria. Screening fees for figures submitted within the Uncirculated grade are as follows:

95+ $5.00 per figure

90+ $4.00 per uncased figure

85+ $3.00 per uncased figure

80+ $2.00 per uncased figure

These fees will be charged to your credit card first for all the figures in the case. Once we determine which figure will possibly grade out to the requested grade, we will charge the grading fees (minus the screening fees) for those figures along with the return shipping and insurance fees for all the figures. This will require you to submit a credit card number so there will not be a delay in the processing due to checking and money order processing times. Also, you can have all the figures graded if you so desire.

I hope that makes sense...... But I will not be held responsible for changes in their pricing policy. This is just a guide.

PERMENANTLY SEALING THE FIGURE

After grading the piece is encased in extremely hard acrylic it will be then given a unique "Catalogue Number", Bar Code reference and Security Hologram. The "Catalogue Number" can be checked on the AFA website www.toygrader.com so you know you are buying a genuine AFA graded article. Most ebay sellers list this number in their description or post a close up photograph of the sticker in their item description detailing all the information you need to know. If you are selling AFA figures try to utilise the MACRO on your digital camera. This will give crystal clear super close-up pictures of the AFA sticker and stop the horrible blurred version which isn't really much help. Personally 2 photos of the figure are the minimum you should be listing, one of the complete figure plus casing and a nice clear close up of the AFA sticker. It will give all the information any collector would need and avoid you fielding lots of questions.

WHAT ARE AFA FIGURES INCASED IN?

The case is made of very hard acrylic and it would require you to take a hammer to it to actually get at the figure.

The acrylic case that they use is NOT air tight (fully sealed), there is a very slight gap, about 1mm, between the bottom of the backside and the base of the case. This is to allow air to flow around the figure and to stop any condensation forming within the case. Condensation on a carded action figure is not a pretty sight, it is cardboard after all and will be very messy.

WHAT DOES YELLOWING MEAN? WHEN AN ITEM STATES "Y"

There are two ways the bubble can yellow. Firstly, any bubble given the Y (yellow) grading means that the Bubble has been exposed to sunligh (or UV, not necessarily direct) and has yellowed (There is NO sliding scale of yellowing, if the AFA see ANY yellowing they will grade it with a Y. This will be reflected in the overall grading. So, for example, a figure that is in excellent/near mint condition but the bubble has yellowed will be given a grading of Y-75 If you send figures to the AFA you can request UV protection so the bubble or card will not yellow through the acrylic. They use a different type of acrylic casing to prevent any UV contamination, this of course costs extra.

Secondly, the actual composition of the plastic that makes the bubble could effect it's colouring. I have seen a figure with a Y grading and a U (uncirculated - see below) grading together. Now this may seem impossible, how can an Uncirculated figure, which has been stored in a sealed cardboard box straight from the factory get a Y rating? I have asked several plastics experts and they agree that certain plastics will yellow through age even if they are not exposed to UV light.

A Yellowed bubble will traditionally be of lesser value than a clear bubble. Collectors want a pristine condition figure and a yellowing of the bubble is seen as a flaw, hence you will find it being of a lesser value.

The card may also suffer from light. The colour will fade and become less glossy, the original white lettering will become yellowed.

WHAT DOES UNCIRCULATED FOR CARDED FIGURES MEAN?

An UNCIRCULATED grading means that the figure has never been put onto a shop shelf, or indeed opened if you bought a box of figures direct from the factory. The figure has been sent to the AFA still in its sealed box. THESE FIGURES WILL BE GIVEN A "U" PREFIX. This is mainly appropriate to modern figures from Episode 1 (1998) onwards. Although it is not unheard of to have VINTAGE FIGURES or VEHICLES with a uncirculated category. These are of course very very rare.

WHAT DOES UNCIRCULATED FOR LOOSE (UNCARDED) FIGURES MEAN?

This means the ACTUAL FIGURE ITSELF has never been touched my human hands (apart from the original factory). So, for example of you could find a 1977 vintage figure that has a UNCIRCULATED prefix on it's grading. This means that when it was sent for grading the bubble was still sealed or at least you cannot access it. So for example, you have a carded figure and the card is very badly damaged so you don't want it graded as a carded figure as it would receive a very poor overall grade, but the figure is in tip-top condition. You can send it to the AFA to have JUST the figure graded. These are highly sort after as they have no limb-wear (the loosening of the limb, arms and legs - the looser they are they more they have been played with and the more chance of damage). Loose figures that are graded but without the "U" prefix generally sell for less.

THE OVERALL GRADING FOR CARDED FIGURES

The AFA do not take a quick glance at figures. They will look at each item and each SUB GRADE in detail. AS PREVIOUSLY MENTIONED THE OVERALL GRADING IS NOT AN AVERAGE OF THE THREE SUBGRADES. The individual grader will give and overall grading on his or her opinion. The best way to gauge your collection for the quality is to buy a high graded AFA item and then compare the card, bubble and figure with your own. You will then realise that even the smallest of anomolies will detract from the grading and therefore the price.

DO THEY GRADE VEHICLES AND PLAYSETS?

The short answer is yes. As most vehicles and playsets do not have clear blisters they usually grade the item once. This is determined by the condition of the cardboard box. If there is a window and the items are clearly visible they will grade these as well. This is more common in newer sets (Episode 1 1998 ONWARDS). For vintage Star Wars items you will only receive one grade, as most did not have windows. A boxed AT-AT on a grade 80NM sold on Ebay in August 2007 for £850. The AT-AT is the biggest vintage Star Wars piece that was made so you can see they grade most stuff (at a price of course!)

WHAT ABOUT VARIATIONS?

I have contacted The AFA about this and they state for VINTAGE FIGURES they will insert any VARIANT on the sticker that is sealed inside the case. They will also update their own online database. For any MODERN FIGURE they advise that you list any known variant on you submission form and will take this into account when grading. Many variants are "factory errors" and sometimes aren't considered true variants by some collectors. This is personal preference and will depend on how serious you are as a collector.

WHAT'S THE BIG DEAL ABOUT RE-SEALS?

As previously mentioned, the AFA will refuse to grade anything that has been "touched up". Is there a mark on the black cardboard that you have coloured in? They will refuse to grade it! Please be aware they will still charge you a grading fee if they think you have altered the figure or card.

If you are tempted to buy a figure that has been re-sealed on a card and you wish to get just the figure graded, be aware. If the AFA see any resealing on the bubble the will refuse to grade the figure itself as an "UNCIRCULATED" figure. For them if a figure has been resealed then it will not qualify for an "UNCIRCULATED" category. There are some people who will try to sell you re-seals indicating that the figure itself could be sent to the AFA to gain an "UNCIRCULATED" certificate. This is UNTRUE!!!!! These are the people who are trying to up the value of their figure by lying on their item description.

Here is a simple rule of thumb: Any re-sealed carded figure will be refused a grading if you send it to be graded as a carded figure as it is not original. If you send a re-sealed carded figure just to get the figure graded they will not give it an "UNCIRCULATED" grading. Any person telling you the opposite doesn't know what they are talking about or are trying to con you out of your money. As with most things, eBay has it's con artists, please be aware they exist in the world of Star Wars figures as well. It is a shame but if people can make money by trying to cheat the system there will always be theives. Always Always Always check the AFA catalogue number at www.toygrader.com if you are unsure at all.

WHAT'S THE BIG DEAL ABOUT "TOUCHING UP" A FIGURE OR CARD TO MAKE IT BETTER?

Dead simple really. If the AFA see any "touching up" they will refuse to grade the figure. "Touching Up" means that there has been external improvement to the figure, card or blister. So for example your carded figure has some splitting in the card and you have taped it together. The AFA will refuse to grade it as it has been altered from it's original factory condition. This also includes adding colour to the card, using a pen to colour in any faded print or altering the figure. Painting, colouring, sticking or doctoring of the figure will be easily spotted by the experts so don't bother. You will be wasting your money. There is a box to tick on the AFA submission form. It asks whether you wish the figure to be cased even if it refused a grading. You may see a few figures for sale on eBay that have been refused. It will still be cased but WILL NOT have a catalogue number.

THE AFA BETA POPULATION WEBSITE

According to the BETA AFA Population Reports website there has never been a 100 GEM grading given to a CARDED VINTAGE figure (1977-1985) so far..........

So if you think your figure is C10 think again. Many collectors are turning to the AFA to stop any biased grading, especially of sight unseen figures (eBay has a massive amount of these, otherwise you wouldn't be reading this!).

This bit is new (March 2008). I have emailed the AFA about the proposed charging of customers to check the AFA population website. They seem to think this will be beneficial for customers. I have my doubts. I hope the FULL VERSION (NOT THE BETA VERSION) will be astonishingly good, historical price guides as promised etc, as charging people just to verify cat numbers is a terrible thing. It will lead to fakes and a raft of problems on eBay. The price of checking verification remains to be seen, I think it will still be free but to get a full report on a graded figure it "could be as much as $2 for each figure you wish to check". A limited guide which is already available should still be free. WATCH THIS SPACE!!!!!!! You can now check to see how your graded figures match up to others with the AFA's new detailed population database. As of May 2007 they have a Beta version running on the website which allows you to see much more detail in the grading of individual figures. For example, you have a ROTS Darth Vader on a U90 NM+/MT grading, you can check to see how many of that exact figure have been graded and what grading they have been given. This will allow you to see how unique your grading is. Many sellers will offer a piece as "the highest graded figure in the world!" What they mean is that according to the AFA database there has been no figure of that exact type with a higher grade. This is a wonderful selling point.

SENDING TO THE AFA AND PRICES FOR GRADING

Filling out a "submission form" to the AFA is a daunting task at first look. But prices for most STANDARD figures can be easily obtained.

BASIC PRICES

Prices are easily obtained from the AFA Website so I am not treading on anyone's toes by listing the basic pricing, It's not like it's a secret. According to the 2008 pricing schedule the basic prices are as follows:

CHEAPEST PRICE FOR BASIC VINTAGE CARDED (1960-1989) FIGURE GRADING = $28 FOR UV PROTECTION ADD $20

CHEAPEST PRICE FOR BASIC VINTAGE LOOSE (1960-1989) FIGURE GRADING = $16 FOR UV PROTECTION ADD $10

CHEAPEST PRICE FOR BASIC MODERN CARDED (1990 onwards) FIGURE GRADING = $18 FOR UV PROTECTION ADD $20

CHEAPEST PRICE FOR BASIC MODERN LOOSE (1990 onwards) FIGURE GRADING = $16 FOR UV PROTECTION ADD $10

THESE PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE AT THE WILL OF THE AFA AND I WILL NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY LOSS YOU MAY INCURE IF YOU USE THESE PRICES (THEY ARE JUST A GUIDE). PLEASE CHECK THE AFA WEBSITE FOR CURRENT PRICING. THESE PRICES DO NOT INCLUDE POSTAGE TO OR BACK FROM THE AFA IN THE U.S.A.

There is a massive amount of information in the pricing guide but a lot of it wont be relevant to your figures. If you are sending odd shaped figures, such as vehicles with flaps etc, it gets a bit more complicated, but you can always email them for help. I have done so on many occasions and they are always quick to reply and are very helpful. Prices vary depending on what you send. Modern figures are cheaper to grade, Vintage ones are more expensive. Bigger figures are more expensive and "Archival" grading, which includes UV protection is an added expense. But remember these figures are protected FOR LIFE and turn into wonderful display peices.

WHAT ABOUT THE V.A.T. BILL FOR RECEIVING GOODS FROM THE U.S.A?

AS MOST COLLECTORS KNOW, GETTING SOMETHING FROM THE U.S.A. CAN BE A PAIN IN THE ARSE. THE VAT MAN HAS TO GET HIS SHARE, WHICH ANNOYS US ALL. READ ON IT'S GOOD NEWS! The AFA will post a notice to customs on your package detailing that you have sent the figures for grading and authentication processes only and that no transaction has taken place. Therefore you will not get billed from "Parcelforce" or the Inland Revenue for a VAT bill.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION SO YOU DON'T GET YOUR FINGERS BURNT

MANY PEOPLE PUT "AFA" IN THEIR ITEM DESCRIPTION. A LOT OF THESE FIGURES ARE "AFA GRADABLE" WHICH IS VERY DIFFERENT FROM "AFA GRADED" ALSO PEOPLE PUT AFA IN THEIR TITLE DESCRIPTION AS MANY PEOPLE SEARCH FOR JUST "AFA". MANY OF THESE FIGURES WOULD NOT GET GRADED AS THEY ARE RE-SEALS. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE BE CAREFUL WHEN SEARCHING. ALWAYS READ THE ITEM DESCRIPTION THOROUGHLY.

IF YOU WANT TO BUY AN AFA GRADED FIGURE AND THE SELLER DOES NOT LIST THE CAT NUMBER ALWAYS ASK FOR IT SO YOU CAN CHECK THE DETAILS ON THE AFA WEBSITE. WITH COLLECTABLES THERE WILL ALWAYS BE A FEW PEOPLE WHO THINK THEY CAN BEAT THE SYSTEM AND CHARGE STUPID PRICES FOR FAKES AND FORGERIES. PLEASE BE AWARE THAT YOU CAN BUY ACRYLIC CASES DIRECT FROM THE AFA. THIS DOES NOT MEAN THEY HAVE BEEN GRADED OR SEALED.

IF IN DOUBT DON'T BUY IT

I AM A COLLECTOR MYSELF AND I AM ALWAYS DUBIOUS OF SELLERS WHO DO NOT LIST THE AFA CAT NUMBER. YOU SHOULD BE TOO. THEY SHOULD BE PROUD OF THE GRADING, NOT TRYING TO HIDE IT, AFTER ALL THEY ARE TRYING TO SELL YOU SOMETHING.

I HOPE THIS HELPS THOSE ARE NEW TO THE COLLECTING OF AFA FIGURES.

I do not work for the AFA. I am just an enthusiastic collector surprised there has been no guide written about the AFA before, hence this very simple guide.

You can see all the information you need to get started at www.toygrader.com

Every serious collector of action figures has an account.

You can set up an account easily and it's completely free and therefore you can check the AFA catalogue number for yourself plus you get occasional newsletters and updates

PLEASE EMAIL ME IF ANYTHING IS WRONG IN THIS GUIDE.

I am not a collecting expert, I have been collecting AFA figures for only a few years so there is loads I still have to learn. The more experienced collectors have a wealth of knowledge that I wish I had. So if there is anything you have seen in this guide that is just blatently wrong please tell me so I can amend accordingly. The collecting of AFA graded figures is relatively new, so there will be loads of questions that you may have that I have not been able to answer in this guide. If you do have questions please drop me a mail. I am on eBay most days so I will try to answer your questions as quickly as possible.

Many thanks if you have reached this far, I hope it all helps!

HAPPY COLLECTING!!!!!!